Chinese Designers Take Paris Fashion Week: Uma Wang, Ruohan and Shiatzy Chen Present Spring Summer 2027
During Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2027, three Chinese designer labels appeared in succession on the official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM): Ruohan, by Ruohan Nie, held a presentation on September 30; Uma Wang, by Wang Zhi, staged a runway show on October 1; and Taiwanese label Shiatzy Chen presented its collection In Accord on October 5.
Ruohan's event was not a runway show but a presentation from 2:00 to 4:30 p.m. on September 30. The new collection, In Becoming, begins with the basic strokes of Chinese characters: horizontal, vertical, left-falling and right-falling. Lines become cuts and openings, while fronts, sleeves and skirts are divided, shifted and recombined like building blocks. Curved aluminum sculptures shaped the presentation space, and a checkered linen was woven with yarns running in multiple directions. The season also introduced trench-style outerwear and vests, loosening the label's familiar elongated proportions. Founded by Ruohan Nie in 2021, the brand also previewed its first standalone store, set to open on Shanghai's Hunan Road in November.
Uma Wang showed at 4:30 p.m. on October 1 inside a 19th-century Protestant church in Paris. The Spring Summer 2027 collection drew on Alexander Calder's mobiles and on rising temperatures, built around lightness, balance and air. Layered pieces can be rearranged by the wearer; organza, crumpled linen and sheer technical fabrics are draped, twisted and knotted around the body in a palette of ecru, beige, bronze, brown and black.
Shiatzy Chen's runway show at 11:30 a.m. on October 5, titled In Accord, continues the house's narrative of the Four Gentlemen of Eastern culture, centered on the orchid. The lines of orchid leaves, petals and roots become elongated, flowing silhouettes, accented by butterfly brooches, bamboo-detailed bags and jade-like closures, in natural shades including deep blue, deep red and botanical green.
Six Chinese labels in total appeared on this season's FHCM official calendar: in addition to the three above, Icicle, Reverie by Caroline Hú and Didu also took part, each in presentation format. The three labels featured here, one presentation and two runway shows, were spread from the third day of fashion week to the eighth.
Source: GSM · USA
Source: GSM · USA (original Chinese edition)
Photo: 图：Uma Wang深圳门店，品牌招牌与当季成衣陈列；非巴黎秀场照片。（图：Wikimedia Commons，CC0）/ The Uma Wang store in Shenzhen, with the brand sign and ready-to-wear displays; not a Paris runway photo. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons, CC0)
